PRODUCERS

XXVI Talhas

4 friends pulled out of mothballs a cellar with 26 ancient terracotta amphorae , restoring a magnificent tradition. Discover the primal traditional wines made on amphorae, from XXVI Talhas.

We have been following them for 3 years now and remain unbridled with enthusiasm. The white wines have a complexity and individuality that is absolutely top-notch, the reds have a drinkability factor that is nothing like the warm south.

The passion of a carpenter

Carpenter Daniel (respectfully called "mestre" in the village because of his craftsmanship) had collected 26 old amphorae during his lifetime in his workshop in Vila Alva, a village in the southern Alentejo. He combined carpentry with wine making, which he then sold locally. That Daniel made his wine in terracotta amphorae (locally called vinho de talha) should come as no surprise. It was the method introduced to Portugal by the Romans more than 2,000 years ago and preserved in some villages in Alentejo.

In 1990, Daniel passed away and the cellar became silent. Until some young villagers decided to renovate the cellar. Now they have been making wine there again according to the old tradition since 2018.

Like most young people in the region, Ricardo Santos and his friends left rural Vila Alva behind to pursue careers in Lisboa. Still, they remained sticking to their roots. Ricardo studied oenology and the more he learned about modern winemaking techniques the more he became fascinated by the simplicity of the vinho de talha from his native region.

Thus was born the idea of reviving the old cellar of Mestre Daniel and making the tradition of amphorae wine known to a wider audience.

Wine made in amphorae is completely unique and the result of very natural vinification.

The lightly crushed grapes are thrown into the amphorae with skins and stems. Without any interference, the juice begins to ferment. Towards the end of fermentation, the amphora is sealed at the top to avoid oxidation. The mass of skins and stems gradually sinks to the bottom.

When the wine has matured sufficiently, it is drained through a tap at the bottom of the amphora. In the process, the sunken mass provides natural filtration.

The ideal blend of conditions

It is no coincidence that viticulture developed near Vidigueira. Here the cool sea breezes and fog from the Atlantic Ocean meet the first obstacle from the coast. The Serra do Mendro, a 400m high ridge, extends just above Vidigueira, forming the border between Alto and Baixo Alentejo.

Capturing the influence of the ocean, remarkably cooler growing conditions for grapes prevail here than elsewhere in Alentejo; even to the extent that Vidigueira is known to locals as a white wine region

Add to this the fact that vinification in amphorae encourages very gentle extraction and the result are vinhos de talha that are nothing like the powerful, highly concentrated and often alcoholic wines that dominate the Alentejo today.

Red vinhos de talha are a nimble, low-alcohol and extremely drinkable breath of fresh air that we can recommend to everyone. White talha wine, on the other hand, surprises with a firm structure and a complexity reminiscent of the better work from the Jura.

OUR XXVI TALHAS SELECTION